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I particularly like it on cherry and walnut, and to bring out the chatoyance of figured maple. It imparts a low sheen – more of a glow, really – and the oil darkens the wood and adds just a hint of yellowing, which looks great on any wood. I like it for small projects that don’t get much abuse, such as the Shaker trays and candleboxes I make a lot. Allback Linseed Oil Wax Pricey, but worth it – and a little goes a long way.Īllback Linseed Oil Wax is made from organic linseed oil (no driers) and beeswax, and it is non-toxic. This is basically a foolproof finish…with the caveat about fools.
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The BLO adds a little yellow, making the piece look older (to my eye, anyway). The “shop finish” is on this workbench – it offers just enough protection against spills (and paw prints).
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I wouldn’t apply more than about four coats though if you do, it will start to look plasticky (but be better protected … so maybe for a tabletop). Repeat as many times as you like to achieve a look you find pleasing. Let it sit for a few hours, then knock down nibs with an extrafine sanding sponge or fine-grit sandpaper. Don gloves, then apply it in a thin coat with a lint-free cotton rag, drawing it out until there are no puddles – in effect, wiping it dry. Just mix them up in a Mason jar, and done. The formula is simple: 1 part varnish (we prefer Helmsman spar varnish), 1 part boiled linseed oil and 1 part thinner (either turpentine or mineral spirits – and for either, we like the less smelly stuff, though it costs more). Two coats offers enough protection against spills. It goes on most shop projects (including benchtops when we bother to finish them). Shop Finish (aka Oil/Varnish Blend) Our workhorse finish (and it’s time to mix another batch).Ī shopmade oil/varnish blend is the workhorse finish here. And I also prefer finishes that are relatively safe.īelow are the finishes that get the most use at our shop, and a bit about each. That photo shoot got pushed a few days.Įxperience helped to cement my finishing preferences: easy, fast, and foolproof (with the caveat that there’s always a bigger fool … and it’s once been me – always test unfamiliar finishes on a practice board). So, he had to strip the finish, sand to bare wood, and start over with a different finish. To not put too fine a point on it, it looked like absolute crap.
Undermine purple torch professional#
The project’s maker – a longtime professional woodworker – chose a “hot” finish of the time, pickling, and applied it with just enough time to allow it to dry overnight for the photo shoot. I’ll never forget the day early in my stint at another woodworking magazine when we were planning a “beauty shot” for the next day. All the finishes (and other flammable liquids) are stored inside a fireproof cabinet at Lost Art Press. I get that – choose the wrong finish for a project, and you can undermine all your hard work on building the thing. And I know, from the many questions I’ve received over my years in woodworking, that it is by far the most terrifying part of the craft. As I suspect is the case for many woodworkers, finishing is not my favorite thing to do (the only thing I like less is sanding).